10 gauge Reloading manual

Discussion in 'Shooting - Reloading Forum' started by 10GAGENUT, Dec 23, 2017.

  1. baltz526

    baltz526 Senior Refuge Member

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    The tool I use to seat wads is a Nut Driver. Some wads do not like to stay on the powder when using the press. Press ram pulls them back off the powder on up stroke.
     
  2. 10GAGENUT

    10GAGENUT Elite Refuge Member Sponsor Flyway Manager

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    I could never figure out why MEC designed their presses like that. The pictured method in the manual works well, Triple B had showed me that method years ago, you can put a lot of pressure on the wad without damage or ride up.
     
  3. Dave in AZ

    Dave in AZ Senior Refuge Member

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    Bpi new edition of mighty 10 out... hope they didnt heist your work.
     
  4. 10GAGENUT

    10GAGENUT Elite Refuge Member Sponsor Flyway Manager

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    As you already know...... it's happened before!! Good thing is I used everybody's wads not just theirs so it may hold them back a bit :h
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2018
  5. Rob Mack

    Rob Mack New Member

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    BPI tells me that the vast majority of steel loads in the new edition of the mighty 10 use buffer, so I expect they will not meet the same performance levels WRT to velocity. Not sure I want to spend my money on the BPI manual. Not sure why they did that, the guy on the phone said it improved patterns but my experience tells me that is a hit or miss proposition.

    Rob
     
  6. Ravenanme

    Ravenanme Elite Refuge Member

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    That's right Rob , not much of a advantage with steel shot using Buffer . Now if we're talking Bismuth , katy bar the door !

    We can't do much better than what Joe is showing in his High Performance Manual , IMHO
     
  7. 10GAGENUT

    10GAGENUT Elite Refuge Member Sponsor Flyway Manager

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    Thanks for that. That is an advantage... I don't need to sell buffer or anything else so it helps!!
     
  8. 10GAGENUT

    10GAGENUT Elite Refuge Member Sponsor Flyway Manager

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    In my experience buffer only raises pressures with steel shot and does little for patterning if you notice there's not any factory steel loads that use buffer anymore like they did when steel shot first hit the scene years ago. For that matter if you use hard High Antimony lead shot you usually don't need buffer with lead loads either, I don't use it with lead Turkey loads and the loads pattern and kill very well.
    Other complication I don't like about buffer is everybody seems to have their own method of getting it dispersed in a load, I've used the vibration method in loads years ago and it raised pressures way beyond what the load recipes stated.
     
  9. 10GAGENUT

    10GAGENUT Elite Refuge Member Sponsor Flyway Manager

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    Longshot powder notes
    Had a few questions about Longshot and if I tried any with 10 gauge loads, for lead loads if they are light enough 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 oz Longshot seemed to work well, you can use stacked gas seal or nitro cards and PT 100 or SP-10 wads for these loads.
    With steel shot loads I tested Longshot against STEEL and Blue Dot powders from 1 1/4 oz up to 1 1/2 oz, in heavier loads Longshot fell short velocity and pressure wise compared to STEEL, in lighter 1 1/4 oz steel loads Longshot gave the same velocities as Blue Dot but at much higher overall pressures. You can use Longshot if it's the only thing available however performance wise STEEL and Blue Dot did much better for me.
     
  10. Mikebig1

    Mikebig1 Senior Refuge Member

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    thanks for the manual TENGAGENUT..after reading it I realized, I have been reloading/crimping my shells wrong all this time.. the double cam tip you mentioned has made me (relearn all over again).. how to final crimp my shells to factory specs.. that tip alone was worth the price of admission.. if I did not say so before, thanks a ton.. very well thought out manual
     

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