A5 owners

Discussion in 'Shooting - Reloading Forum' started by Wareaglebrowning, Jan 16, 2018.

  1. CanardNoir

    CanardNoir Senior Refuge Member

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    The A-5 and especially the older ones, will all work better IF:

    1) Taken apart, remove the butt stock, magazine springs and all associated brass rings - and spray each piece to flush with ether (engine starting fluid; preferably outside the house) then wiped clean, with the bolt recoil spring being of special importance;

    2) then spray each piece with WD-40, and wipe clean with a clean-cotton rag;

    3) finally, spray each piece lightly with a dry molly lubricant ( like - https://www.zoro.com/crc-dry-moly-l...MInLS6_aqP2QIVBiSGCh0c3gwQEAYYBiABEgKPBfD_BwE ; https://www.amazon.com/CRC-03084-Net-Weight-Lubricant/dp/B0013J62P4 ), and then carefully inspect each piece for adequate metal-to-metal coverage and reassemble the fowling piece.

    Because in very cold & damp gunning environments, petroleum-based lubricants are not your friend. And most waterfowlers will never shoot a single shotgun enough to wear one out! But as Phil Robertson told me years ago: "The best shotgun (for a waterfowler) to have is one that will (always) go: Boom, Boom, Boom!"
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2018
  2. ALMODUX

    ALMODUX Elite Refuge Member

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    No offense, but WD-40 IS petroleum based, and it needs to be completely removed....which requires more degreaser, such as acetone or slip 2000 around any synthetic parts. Moly is great, IF you can get it everywhere you need it, in the right amounts. It’s not normally great beyond specific parts, because it doesn’t flow enough to coat when worn. A good synthetic oil is still yseful for that, in moderation. Point is: there’s no ‘perfect’ OR do it all, magic substance. Use a cleaner to clean. Use a protector/inhibitor for corrosion. Use the right lubes (wet, dry, thick, thin) in the right places and amounts. It doesn’t have to be some special, latest, most expensive, tacticool lube. There IS nothing ‘new’, and guns really are not high demand uses for lubricants. Engines are way more stressful on lubricants than guns. Food service compressor lubes are really good, if your worried about the minor amounts of benzene that may be in auto oil or atf. Just watch out for graphite, as it is abrasive over time. I’ve had good luck with eezox as a base/corrosion preventative, and slip 2000 as a cleaner/degreaser, and synthetic motor and compressor oils, mixed with atf, seafoam, and or acetone to thin.....just thoughts.
     
    Luigi Daniele likes this.
  3. CanardNoir

    CanardNoir Senior Refuge Member

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    After a careful wipe with a clean cotton rag or towel, the amount of WD-40 remaining on the surface is inconsequential, and the water-displacement factor is far more important. And by the time you laydown a coating of dry moly lube, you friction factor come cold weather is no different. Besides, the viscosity of the WD is far below that of 20w-50 motor oil... Back during the 1950s, we used lamp oil/kerosene as a shotgun lubricant in cold weather, because we had nothing more liquid as the temps declined.

    But if you're sloppy and tend to always overspray - the remaining amount of WD-40 may become problematic.

    However, the dry moly becomes more important when stainless steel parts are involved, as their friction surfaces tend to be rougher if not carefully polished.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2018
    Luigi Daniele likes this.
  4. ALMODUX

    ALMODUX Elite Refuge Member

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    Personally, I prefer not to let WD40 touch my A5s, and I’d really prefer not to waste good dry moly over the top of petroleum residue. Clean, dry, light coat of quality oil where JB said to, and they’ll run for 112 years.
     
  5. Native NV Ducker

    Native NV Ducker Mod-Duck Hunters Forum, Classifieds, and 2 others Moderator Flyway Manager

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    yup
     
  6. Matt Barnard

    Matt Barnard Elite Refuge Member

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    I had sluggish issues with my A-5 when it got cold out. Took it apart, cleaned the grooves the block rides in, cleaned the very back end of the barrel where the locking lugs engage, etc. Still not great. Took the stock off. Don't forget to pay attention to your shims and stock washer. Disassembled the rest of the gun, except for the main spring. I took Sea-Foam and poured it in the gun, with the gun pointing straight up. I depressed the plunger and let it all run down on the spring. Did this several times. I was very liberal with the Sea-Foam. Put the block back in the gun and stroked it a lot. Still had the gun pointed up so it would all run in the tube. Stored the disassembled gun up for a night, then reassembled the gun and stored it barrel down. I worked the action a bunch. It closes like a bear trap. Did that at Thanksgiving, never had a problem since. Still works great.
     
  7. Native NV Ducker

    Native NV Ducker Mod-Duck Hunters Forum, Classifieds, and 2 others Moderator Flyway Manager

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    Sea Foam seems like an expensive way to de-grease, but with it's carbon cleaning attributes, I can see the advantage. Would not have thought of it. :tu
     
  8. Matt Barnard

    Matt Barnard Elite Refuge Member

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    It wasn't really intentional wisdom on my part. It was handy while I was out in my shop. It did work GREAT!!! And, a certain amount of lube qualities.
     
  9. WITX68

    WITX68 New Member

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    I’ve only had a couple really cool days here in TX when it dropped into the teens but I haven’t had an issue with my A5 as of yet. I do wipe it down after every trip out and try to strip it down competently once a week to really clean it. I use Rem Oil... as I said no issues. It ate every 3 and 3.5 she’ll I put into it.
     
  10. ALMODUX

    ALMODUX Elite Refuge Member

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    FWIW, whenever I reference ‘A5’, I mean the original, long recoil, Auto 5, unless otherwise noted. Just in the interest of discernment here. ;)
     

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