Bow adjustment questions

Discussion in 'Bow Hunting Forum' started by WoodieSC, Sep 1, 2005.

  1. WoodieSC

    WoodieSC North/South Carolina Flyway Forum Moderator Flyway Manager

    Messages:
    19,560
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2000
    Location:
    SC
    A friend just loaned me a compound bow to play with. I know little to nothing about the adjustment mechanisms other than "it can be done".

    This is an older Jennings Buckmaster bow, in decent shape, and is supposedly a 55# - 65# bow. It currently feels like it's set for about 60 lbs and the adjustment screws are fairly far out so it may be a 60# - 70# bow.

    It's presently set for about a 30" draw length. I need it to be about 28" - 28.5" or so. If you look at the first picture of the lower cam it shows that there are two adjustment screws set midway in their range. My problem is that I don't know one from the other. How much range do these adjustments have in them, etc?

    I'd also like the pull set lower if possible due to a left shoulder problem. Will adjusting the draw length affect this at all? It doesn't look like the limbs can be set much lower, but I'm not sure.

    I'd appreciate it if you'd take a look at the attached pics and tell me what you think about adjusting the bottom cam and the two adjusting bolts on the limbs.

    I do realize that any adjustment will require a bow press so I'll have to take it into a bow shop. I'd just like to have some understanding of what I'm dealing with before I head over there in case it's not going to be worth my efforts.

    Btw, I realize I'll need to add at least a rest and possibly a sight, although since I shoot a recurve I might just go "au natural" on that. ;)

    Thanks.

    WoodieSC
     
  2. WoodieSC

    WoodieSC North/South Carolina Flyway Forum Moderator Flyway Manager

    Messages:
    19,560
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2000
    Location:
    SC
    Here's the top pics...
     
  3. misfire

    misfire Senior Refuge Member

    Messages:
    776
    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2002
    Location:
    TX
    Woody,
    I shot a Buckmaster for many years. It is a great bow and should serve you well. I'm no expert but I'll try to address a couple of your questions.

    First off, you are missing your draw length adjustment "cylinder" off the bottom cam. I'm not sure what the screws you are refering to does, but they are NOT the draw adjustment.

    The draw adjustment is simply a small brass cylinder that slides back and fourth in the large slot that runs the length of the outside of your cam. (the wheel on the top of your bow is an "idler" wheel) The brass cylinder sticks out far enough from the cam that when you draw the bow it contacts the "middle" length of bowstring and stops your draw. It is held in place by a set screw. It shouldn't be very hard to get a new one. Once that is in place you will have an easily adjustable draw stop and a rock solid draw "wall".

    Secondly,

    Without a bow scale it is hard to say how much more you can decrease the draw weight. It looks to me as though it is backed out pretty far already. I wouldn't back it out anymore without taking it to someone that can check it out.

    Adjusting the draw weight and the draw length doesn't require a bow press with the Buckmaster. (most bows don't require a bow press for weight, but some require a bowpress for length adjustment.) If you have the string replaced you will need a bowpress. Your bowsting is a single string that is LONG. Mine was 98.5" long.

    You will need to add a rest since the riser is a center shot. I don't think you will be happy shooting off the shelf on that one. A simple TM hunter will work just fine. If you add a sight and decide you need a peep, you'll need a bow press to install the peep.

    I gave my Buckmaster to my father-in-law and he is shooting it just fine with fingers. He couldn't get used to the release.

    I hope I offered a bit of insight. Give me a shot with any additional questions and I'll do the best I can to help.
     
  4. misfire

    misfire Senior Refuge Member

    Messages:
    776
    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2002
    Location:
    TX
    Ok, I've been doing some searching to try and find a pic of the drawstop I said you were missing. It seems as though your cam, although it looks just like the one that was on my bow, may be a newer version and may adjust different than mine did. It may be something to look into though.
     
  5. WoodieSC

    WoodieSC North/South Carolina Flyway Forum Moderator Flyway Manager

    Messages:
    19,560
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2000
    Location:
    SC
    misfire,

    Thanks for the info. I'm trying to see if I can locate an instruction manual for it. If not, I'll take it up to the bow shop. I just didn't want to make any unnecessary trips right now and the good shop is a ways away.

    I'm planning on putting a Flipper Rest on it for now. My buddy has a TM Hunter rest and he hasn't been happy with the adjustment capability, at least on the cheaper one. It seems awful stiff and he's got the spring backed all the way out.

    Please let me know if you think of anything else. :tu
     
  6. WoodieSC

    WoodieSC North/South Carolina Flyway Forum Moderator Flyway Manager

    Messages:
    19,560
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2000
    Location:
    SC
    misfire,

    I did locate a manual that I downloaded from the Jennings Archery site. It appears I've got a SuperCam cam and just need to locate a Jennings dealer to get a new draw length module. Neither of the shops around here carry them.

    Thanks.
     
  7. Red

    Red Senior Refuge Member

    Messages:
    290
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2003
    Location:
    KENTUCKY!!!
    The brass post that your string is attached to are D.L. adjustments. Moving the post away from the axle will shorten you up to 1/2 an inch and you'll probably lose a pound or two. THIS IS NOT SOMETHING YOU CAN DO WITHOUT A PRESS SO DON'T TRY IT. The draw stop that your missing contacts the back of the limb at full draw to give it a hard wall. You really need to try and find modules for the amount of adjustment that your going to need.

    As far as poundage tighten each bolt as tight as it will go then back them both out 5 full turns. If its a 70#er that should put you right at 55-58 lbs.

    Good Luck -Scott
     
  8. WoodieSC

    WoodieSC North/South Carolina Flyway Forum Moderator Flyway Manager

    Messages:
    19,560
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2000
    Location:
    SC
    Red,

    I talked to a couple of shops in NC and Gander Mt. in VA. GM is supposed to call me back. The other shops didn't have the #06 or #05 modules in stock. I'll have to check on the draw stop... or, if I can't locate one, can I use a nut and bolt?

    Thanks for the tip on backing out the limbs. This shoulder problem requires me to stay in the mid to upper 50's if I can.
     
  9. misfire

    misfire Senior Refuge Member

    Messages:
    776
    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2002
    Location:
    TX

    Check E-Bay for the modules you are looking for. Here is a link to an e-bay page. Scroll down to the bottom of the page an look for auctions by Archerytrader. He has several different modules for Jennings bows. Shoot him an e-mail and maybe he can help you out.

    http://search.ebay.com/jennings-buckmaster_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8





    Good Luck!
     

Share This Page