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Discussion in 'Duck & Goose Calling Forum' started by craig wilson, Dec 18, 2017.
It proved Buck could sell a lot of calls at shows.
Yup, also proved that your average duck hunter isn’t the brightest bulb in the pack. “Hmmmm let’s see, spit... water... yup same thing” smdh
Since Buck did indeed design and offer a call that is stick resistant he gets a pass.
Those that bought his calls assuming they were stick resistant got what they wanted.
As some of you know I am still learning. But if Trevor and Stump have taught me anything it's how to (1) blow from the gut, and (2) keep my throat open when calling. And when I got consistent doing that, calls that used to stick didn't. I think if you control the air entering the call in the right way, you are putting AIR into the call and not spit. At least with me, if I have a tighter throat the spit builds up in my mouth more and at minimum I have to shake out the call more often. Not so much if the technique is right. I am a LONG way from being half the duck caller that 90 % of you guys are, but the above did help with sticking.And that's with any call I own, RNT down to no name $20 calls.
bucks poly calls are about as good as they get. the double nasty is a great poly call....
Hunting when it’s 25° or colder seems to make calls fickle. And hunting from a layout blind doesn’t help either. The spit doesn’t drain off or get blown out as well. I’ve been impressed with Stump’s new mods. Maybe not 100% stickproof, but sure better than the alernatives.
Back in the day (circa-1980s), the more exotic-natural-oil woods like cocobolo, were less prone to sticking, and that was one reason why custom call makers could garner $100-200-300 and more for their calls (especially their competition models).
For the typical $5-10-15-cedar calls - like Phil Robertson's early Duck Commanders - often required soaking the inserts in Thompson's Water Seal during the summer; allowing it to dry outdoors in the 85-100-degree heat for at least a week; then lightly-smooth the throat of the call with 600-900 grit sandpaper, before reassembling & tuning.
Many thought the traditional Olt D-2 was a duck call was more resistant to sticking, so many call makers trended toward throats/inserts that were made from thermo-formed high-density plastics and acrylics. Three-D modeling has since allowed copying and enabled call makers to "pop" each others' design almost at will.
During the early-era of competition goose calling - Turtle Wax was a callers' favorite for the cedar-throat/inserts of the old Olt goose calls. And since most of the really great reed-call competitors were also guides, like Maryland's Tim Covey, they often had as many as a dozen really good calls at hand
at any given time. Realize too, that from a dozen new Olts, only one was likely to be of their liking.
Trying to put too much air through a call can also increase sticking. But a reed's thickness combined with the type of material that its made from, can and will change a call's sticking tendencies. Sheet mylar has evolved as a call-makers' favorite ( https://www.grafixplastics.com/mate...MInf3p-56P2QIVT4GzCh08eAI9EAAYASABEgKpJfD_BwE ) - but many calls were developed with reeds using other types of thin plastics, and the flexibility of that element has a great deal to do with the frequency of the sound that a call can & will produce.
Years ago, we progressively-thinned reeds with 300-900 grit sandpaper in order to achieve a higher pitched tone. But that practice did not always work, and different thicknesses of reed material became available.
Hence. the reed is the critical element for tone, range of pitch, and stickability of any call. And a variance of 0.0001" thickness can make all of the difference in the world.
So first get out you old micrometers and measure the thickness of a reed from a call you like, and try to determine what its made from - before you discard that old duck or goose call!
Remember, some call makers like Kentuckian Hillous York - have long been using bi-metallic metal sheets from which to cut their reeds. So talk about craftsmanship and the call-maker's art - and you'll really discover another whole new and different technique for calling waterfowl.
BTW - No matter what type or brand of waterfowl call you're tinkering with - don't fail to consider the shape, age, and material that your wedge or composite cork reed holding device is made from. And whether there is a flat surface holding that reed in place or a slight bevel at its end - there can be a significant difference in that call's performance. New cork material is always a step toward making your call perform better, because it determines the pressure that's holding the reed in place...
This made my head hurt. Cedar doesn’t stick any more/less than coco. OLTs stick like crazy. And Goose calls don’t stick with spit