Cleaning your shotgun the correct way

Discussion in 'Shooting - Reloading Forum' started by Kevin Burroughs, Jan 30, 2018.

  1. Kevin Burroughs

    Kevin Burroughs Elite Refuge Member

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    I posted this several years ago and was asked to post it again.

    I get lots of calls and PM's on guns that are jamming, particularity auto's.

    This method works. I only shoot Beretta's but this will work for any auto.

    Cleaning your Auto.
    Break the gun all the way down. On Xtrema's this takes less than a minute, less than 5 min with a recoil spring in the stock models.

    Put the barrel, forearm and stock off to the side for awhile.

    Ok, lets get out the cleaners, gun scrub or whatever you happen to like and spray the gun down real well and get the gross of the dirt off the thing. Spray down the trigger group and set it aside for a bit.

    Do the same to the gas piston assy. Set it aside also.

    Now get a plastic bucket, about a gallon should do it. Fill it half way with the hottest water you can get. Add a cup of 409 and dump all the small parts in it and let sit. Throw all the chokes in also.

    For all you Extrema owners , listen close. This is important. The mag tube is a major problem for not getting it clean. That tube should shine when you clean it. I use a green scratchy that you clean pots and pans with. The bolt assy and the recoil spring should be soaking now but it needs to cleaned well also.

    You should have the magazine spring and tube apart also. Pick up the receiver and a good stiff brush and your spray bottle of 409. Start in scrubbing the inside with the 409 and your brush. Look closely at the back of the action and if it needs to be scraped and pick out all the crap out of the bolt rails and the back of the action. It doesn't take much crap to slow the action down so look close.

    A good bottle brush makes quick work out of the magazine tube. lots of crap gets in there so get it clean.

    Rinse the action with hot water and set it aside. Dry it as good as you can with a dry towel.

    Pick up the barrel and lets get to it. Look close at the gas ports from the barrel to the gas piston housing. They make little stainless brushes to clean those ports. Plastic from the wads will be on the inside of the holes and needs to be cleaned off. Clean you barrel however you like. Its hard chromed and is pretty easy to get cleaned.

    Start pulling your small parts out of the bucket and start in on them with a brush and 409. Rinse everything with hot water and dry as well as you can.

    For the guys with the recoil spring in the stock, I use a .40cal barrel brush on a cleaning rod with a drill to clean out the tube. Treat it like a barrel and keep swabbing it out till it shows clean on a cotton swab run in the tube. I use syn wheel bearing grease to lube the spring and tube. Less is better. A 10 gauge barrel brush makes a great chamber brush. Chuck in a drill and get after it, forward and reverse.

    Use a hot blow drier to dry all the parts. Wipe down everything with a white terrycloth towel to see if you get it clean.

    You need about 4 drops of oil to oil the whole action. 1 drop will be put on the carrier hinge pin on the trigger group. The trigger should be almost dry.

    Put her back together and you should be good to go. Some anti seize on the choke threads is a good idea.

    I have a gathered a bunch of brushes over the years that I love. Auto parts stores and auto paint stores are a great place to look.



    I hope this helps and if you have something that works for you I would like to hear it.
     
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  2. Luigi Daniele

    Luigi Daniele Elite Refuge Member

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    Thank you!
     
  3. buck_master_2001

    buck_master_2001 Elite Refuge Member

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    Take it apart. Use an air compressor to blow out everything. Run a bore snake through the barrel and Lube areas that have friction and reassemble. That’s it.
     
  4. Tuleman

    Tuleman Elite Refuge Member

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    I can't argue with any of Kevin's method...except for the hot water and soap part. I'd be hesitant about putting my gun into soapy water....rather use solvent in a parts cleaner. Odorless mineral spirits is a fine degreaser/cleaner, one that doesn't promote rusting.
    Since our duck season has now ended, guess it's time to break down the shotgun for its annual 100% cleaning.
     
  5. Kevin Burroughs

    Kevin Burroughs Elite Refuge Member

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    Hot soapy water is the reason it works
     
  6. 10GAGENUT

    10GAGENUT Elite Refuge Member Sponsor Flyway Manager

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    Good post, my only hope is people clean their guns more than once a season !!
     
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  7. Kevin Burroughs

    Kevin Burroughs Elite Refuge Member

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    Yeah just hope they ever clean them. Mine gets the major tear down once a month or when it starts ejecting shells close to me. When its clean it shucks them about 15 feet.
     
  8. Native NV Ducker

    Native NV Ducker Mod-Duck Hunters Forum, Classifieds, and 2 others Moderator Flyway Manager

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    For those that would rather watch than read....
     
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  9. buck_master_2001

    buck_master_2001 Elite Refuge Member

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    Why do you need hot soapy water? Just curious. I have a semi auto I’ve shot for close to 20 years and have never felt the need to put it in hot soapy water. My A400 has been used and abused and again, never felt the need to put it in hot soapy water. Air compressor and q tips do wonders.
     
  10. 10GAGENUT

    10GAGENUT Elite Refuge Member Sponsor Flyway Manager

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    It's an old school method and still can be used as long as you dry parts thoroughly and lubricate them. Back in the day both primers and many powders were extremely corrosive and hot soapy water was used extensively to neutralize and clean the corrosive salts that may have built up in a firearm. Today there is little to no corrosive ammunition out there so it's not used as extensively, but it still can get a lot of crud out of a firearm.
     
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