Decoy Repair

Discussion in 'Decoy Forum' started by Winchester-12, Nov 30, 2016.

  1. BlindDuck

    BlindDuck Elite Refuge Member

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    IMG_4026.JPG I got suckered into buying a can of Flexseal. That crap hasn't worked on a damn thing I have sprayed it on.
     
  2. The Mad Duck

    The Mad Duck Elite Refuge Member

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    You can use Hot Glue, Aquaseal ,caulking or 5200 to repair plastic decoys. I expect, if you're careful, you could plastic weld the holes shut. You would need some similar plastic that would bond with the decoy body.
     
  3. smashdn

    smashdn Elite Refuge Member

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    THe only thing about the silicon and caulking type stuff is that they often do not bond well with the plastic. I used 5200 for a long time before I started using the JB Weld for plastic. It is far better imo. It actually gets hard and binds to the plastic surrounding it.

    I just got through repairing a second hand goose decoy that looks like it was either ran over or sat on as it was actually cracked and split in several places. I let the epoxy start to stiffen some and smeared it so it will bridge the gap.

    One of the keels was also hanging on by a thread of plastic and I now have it completely epoxied back to the body.
     
  4. Billy Bob

    Billy Bob Elite Refuge Member

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    Keep us updated on the keel repair, please. Cracks in the bottom of the decoy at the ends of the keel and broken off keels are some of the hardest repairs to make and have good results.
     
  5. smashdn

    smashdn Elite Refuge Member

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    I repaired splits at the end of the keel three years ago with the JB weld on my everyday use decoys and they are still holding up great. These were those carry-lite mother nature mallards that I like so well. Everyday when i was picking them up they would have water in them. I knew I hadn't shot them and searched all over and didn't see a hole. Finally I pulled all of the string off of them and saw the cracks.

    Sand paper, wipe with alcohol on a clean cloth and dab a healthy dose of the two part epoxy on there.

    I will try and get some pictures of the repairs I have done. The ducks are up in the barn, the geese are still getting work done to them in the garage.
     
  6. Billy Bob

    Billy Bob Elite Refuge Member

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    Thank you. I will try it. I am beginning to think that 2 part epoxy is the best for a lot of things. I used something similar to repair old waders called sg-20 and it is the best thing I have ever used on waders, patches even stay on the rubber boots without peeling like aquaseal always does and are fully cured and ready to wear in 1 hour.
     
  7. GUNNERX2

    GUNNERX2 Elite Refuge Member

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    For small repairs, like shot holes, I've melted nylon decoy cord with a cigarette lighter and let it drip into the hole. I've not had to go back and repair again. It would not be a good solution for large cracks and voids.
     
  8. BlindDuck

    BlindDuck Elite Refuge Member

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    I like that fix Gunner will try that.

    Used a similar method to fill a hole from a 12ga shotgun in an aluminum boat , only we melted nylon rope and shell casings.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2016
  9. Rick Hall

    Rick Hall Elite Refuge Member

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    I make most hole repairs with a swipe of an electric soldering iron but also do something similar with slightly wedged slivers of plastic from a quart motor oil jug: stick the pointed end in the hole and light the other end. Heats the decoy plastic as it melts down and forms a good bond.
     
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  10. smashdn

    smashdn Elite Refuge Member

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    20161208_185349_resized.jpg

    20161208_185401_resized.jpg
    ^ That is the Loctite plastic epoxy. It dries a dirty white color.

    20161208_185634_resized.jpg

    That was the last of the JB Weld plastic epoxy I had. Not a great picture of the color but it dries to a clear yellow color. Very hard both of them when they are dry, not like a silicone repair at all.

    A fox of coyote had been chewing on that hen mallard butt.
     
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