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DIY Pulsator

Discussion in 'Decoy Forum' started by WestKyHunt, Nov 3, 2017.

  1. qwk-qwk-b00m

    qwk-qwk-b00m Elite Refuge Member

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    Location:
    Oklahoma
    And drill the hole to one side so the wires don't have to make a hard 90 to connect them.
     
  2. WestKyHunt

    WestKyHunt Refuge Member

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    Dec 15, 2016
    I got the boxes and have started on putting the pvc plugs in and ,while i thank everyone for the answers, My question has yet to been answered.
    Where does the 2 pole trailer plug need to be placed? I've seen pictures where it is right under the bilge. Could I connect my charger there and it charge the batteries? Would the flasher effect charging or vice versa?
    Once again thanks for the help
     
  3. negooseman

    negooseman Elite Refuge Member

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    Location:
    nebraska
    I never used the 2 pole trailer plug, just a flasher.
     
  4. jdduckman

    jdduckman Senior Refuge Member

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    Jan 8, 2005
    Location:
    California
    I tried the 552 flasher wired to positive side of Battery (motor - flasher - positive terminal).
    The flasher stopped working before I could get back in the blind.
    Tried it later and it still wouldn't work. so I just ran it without the flasher which made a nice duck butt fountain, but little ripple.
    Any suggestions on whether I just happened to get a bad flasher or maybe I should try a different flasher?
    With only a few weeks of the season left I didn't want to wait for a pulse timer component.
     
  5. Rolen_Zen

    Rolen_Zen Senior Refuge Member

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    Sep 9, 2008
    Location:
    Iowa
    I made 2 pulsars and used an on/off timer off ebay to cycle the pulses and save on battery time. It works well and can be custom programmed. The one I got
    I know this doesn't help with your short time frame, but might be a good off season addition.
     
  6. chuam

    chuam Elite Refuge Member

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    Location:
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    I put the trailer plug right under the bilge. That way I can pull the cord to get the battery up and not worry about losing the box.
     
  7. chuam

    chuam Elite Refuge Member

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    You'll get bad flashers from time to time. Try to find one of the digital ones as I found they work way better.
     
  8. WestKyHunt

    WestKyHunt Refuge Member

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    Dec 15, 2016
    That is what I ended up doing. They worked pretty well this season and definetly added some much needed movement. Though I would change a few things if (or when) I do it again. Such as not using deck screws to secure the bilge pump to the decoy and applying more adhesive on the conduit 90 (they stay on but will rotate).
     
  9. Okie Fowler

    Okie Fowler Senior Refuge Member

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    Oct 1, 2008
    Location:
    Muldrow, Oklahoma
    I use a hardwired setup that runs back to the power source in the blind. I use two 12V 8ah batteries in parallel for my power source, which is routed through a switch and pulsator timer. The batteries, switch, and timer are all inside of a plastic bucket that is placed inside of rubber inner tube (allows the bucket to float).

    Currently, I have two butt feeders connected to the system, although have the battery capacity to easily support another butt feeder or swimmer.

    The nice thing about having the power source in the blind with me is that I can shut it off easily when the ducks are not flying, or when they seem to freak out from the butt feeder action.

    IMG_1128.JPG IMG_1129.JPG
     
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  10. likesbigspreads

    likesbigspreads Elite Refuge Member

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    Pekin, IL

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