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FLY FISHING / DUCK BOAT

Discussion in 'Boats, Blinds, & Gadgets Forum' started by SERE Nate, Aug 8, 2018.

  1. SERE Nate

    SERE Nate New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2017
    I live in Whitefish MT and am looking at having a jon boat custom built. I mostly hunt a slough that is around 5 feet deep with some weeds and vegetation in the water. There are also some large lakes within an hour of me that I'm interested in hunting as well. The Flathead river is also a place that I would like to start hunting with the boat. No timber, don't think I really need a mud motor, but for running the river I am leaning towards a jet drive.

    I also would like to be able to use this as a fly fishing rig on the lakes for pike and smallmouth, as well as in the river. I'd love to be able to run up the river and float back down and not have to worry about shuttles. I have a drift boat and rafts for the shallow rivers and rapids.

    50% of the time I will be hunting by myself with my dog. 40% of the time with 1 buddy, and 10% of the time with 2 hunters.

    I'm not sure if I want to get a 16 or 18 foot boat. I like the idea of being able to hide the 16 foot boat easier, but extra storage is always nice. I plan to build a removable hard blind using coroplast as the walls to keep down the weight. probably go 60 wide on the bottom.

    I want to run a tiller with maybe a standup bar to help out with visibility. Don't want to take up space with a console.

    I want a large casting deck with trolling motor on the front, and a large casting deck on the back covering up the battery and fuel tank.

    There will be times late in the season where I will be breaking ice.

    Here are my questions.

    16 or 18 ft?

    48 or 60 wide?

    flat bottom or mod V?

    Should I get a tunnel?

    Stick Steer or tiller?

    Welded vs rivet

    how thick?

    60 hp jet enough? Do I need a jet?

    Does anyone have pics of a dual purpose boat with the fly fisherman in mind?
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2018
  2. tennessee

    tennessee Senior Refuge Member

    Messages:
    148
    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2013
    Location:
    East of the plateau TN
    My vote- welded and at least .100 gauge aluminum. Either an 1872 or 1860.
     
  3. birdhunter007

    birdhunter007 Elite Refuge Member

    Messages:
    1,434
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2003
    Location:
    Walla Walla
    I hunt the Snake and Columbia rivers mostly and own an 860 War Eagle, side console with a 150 Merc Jet on the back. It works perfect for my needs. It handles rough water well but can get into the skinny stuff pretty easy. Most of the areas I hunt are shallow gravel without a lot of weeds. Weeds or Milfoil are the downfall of a jet, but I have never really had any problems with weeds.
    I did put front and back platforms on my boat, mostly for carp shooting, but they would equally well as a casting platform.
    Not the clearest pics but you get the idea...


    20180206_120101.jpg 20180206_120237.jpg 20180206_120110.jpg 20180206_120244.jpg 20180206_120101.jpg
     
  4. calling4life

    calling4life Elite Refuge Member

    Messages:
    1,546
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2009
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Weeds and mud aren't good for jets.

    But why jet? Are you running in shallows? Because you note having other boats for the rapids and shallows... If you aren't running sub 1 foot you really should be ok with a prop and not even having a tunnel at all

    Breaking ice, do you also run into other stuff... logs, boulder you didn't see, shore... Go with something like a Gator Trax with a .190 hull

    1672, 1872 would be me, but I like wide, it's stable. As far as semi v or flat, if you don't need it to be insanely shallow running/drafting go semi v, it'll be more comfortable in waves/chop I guess (basic alum. jon boats are always pretty poor in this area).

    You can run properly done propeller tunnel hulls insanely shallow, I know, I do it. They'll also run through weeds, a thick milfoil mat for hundreds of yards = buy a surface drive, but just normal weeds or a 50 foot stretch of milfoil mat and I run through it fine. A perfectly done tunnel will allow you to run with the SKEG of the outboard above the bottom of the boat, this means on a boat with pods, you have the hull completely protecting that motor, but it is your hull that hits first. .190 thousandths hull pays off here too but I'm currently in a fiberglass boat and I just went scraping over a boulder the other day

    Buy more motor, like a 90 on the 1672 or a 115 or so on that 18

    Welded

    I'd go center console, but I've always run tillers, never touched a stick steer.

    Jack plate

    But all the above is expensive, .190 hull... it'll last, but you'll pay for it.

    Could you get away with a weld-bilt 1870 tunnel w/jack plate and a 60hp propped outboard, .100 hull. Probably
     
  5. SERE Nate

    SERE Nate New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2017
    I want a jet so that I can run up the rivers over here and float back down them and will probably add oars at some point or trolling motor for drifting. A lot of the rivers here are shallow and a jet is the only way to run them.
     
  6. calling4life

    calling4life Elite Refuge Member

    Messages:
    1,546
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2009
    Location:
    Minnesota
    I run up rivers and float fish down them, it's really mainly all I do. 11' through hull tunnel hull, $1500, 1998 Evinrude 8hp 2 stroke with compression plate and severely cupped prop hanging off the back with an adjustable lift bracket. I run on plane and over the boulders, gravel bars, over and through the weeds/weedbeds, so on... the boat runs on top of the water, not in it.

    The St. Louis river and the Cloquet river. I have yet to see another person running on plane where I fish. Most locals run 2-3hp outboards and zig zag around slowly, also, they stick to very limited areas, because they still hit stuff.

    This will also be my hunting boat

    What do you consider shallow? Your reality may necessitate a jet, jet may also just be easier, but most don't know what can really be done with a propped outboard, many don't care either...
     
  7. SERE Nate

    SERE Nate New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2017
    It seems like your 8 hp motor would do fine on the water that I am looking at running. Would you say the same with a 90 hp motor off the back?
     
  8. calling4life

    calling4life Elite Refuge Member

    Messages:
    1,546
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2009
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Majek RFL line of boats are known to be able to run with the skeg above the bottom of the boat, they have a 25' model that runs 225hp motors.
    Microdraft boats has a video of their 22' xtreme shallow model skimming over near nothing, they note being able to run with the skeg above the bottom of the boat, 115hp I think they run on these.

    Flats Cats claim they can skim over 1/2", so if you could run with the skeg of your motor above the bottom on this boat, you'd only need a little over 1/2" to clear whatever obstacle you need to avoid.

    The right boat, the right set up, the right person willing to go to those extremes, yes, I fully believe you could do it with bigger motors and bigger boats.

    But you can't handicap yourself, not with bigger stuff, don't think you can get away with a manual jackplate, a stock prop, normal water pickups, etc... We are talking about taking things to the extreme edge here.

    Also, boat may skim over 1/2", but it'll need 2-3" or so to actually run in, there just isn't enough water to feed a tunnel with only 1/2" depth. Boat may also draft 6" and need 8" to take off and get on plane, so don't stop in 3" of water... don't try getting on plane in 3" of water... so on. But it'll depend upon boat design. It's just nice knowing that the boulder you didn't see that's 3/4" under the surface isn't going to be a problem.

    Majek RFL 21' with a 150 Honda


    Microdraft 22' 115hp


    Dream boats 1" of water
     

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