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Discussion in 'Boats, Blinds, & Gadgets Forum' started by BadBowtie, Jan 18, 2017.
Access to drain plug? Looks to be covered.
I've used the alternative hydroturf with decent results. I used the 2x2 sheets or so from other places but like the idea of the one solid sheet from RK!
I mainly have screwed both sets of mine down over 13 seasons. The original set might have lasted longer if it was glued down and one solid piece.
Its not. The floor has a nice size notch for that. Ill show in pictures later.
that will work just fine
I just finished a floor in my 1754 Grizzly over the weekend. We weighed options on how exactly to lay it out and opted to do two long pieces vs. several wide as you did, mostly because of the angle at of the ribs at the middle. We used a couple of large cardboard boxes to make a template which significantly cut down on cut time.
It'll be covered in hydroturf and fastened with stainless screws so that it can be removed in two pieces. I elected not to use foam and went with .125 aluminum, but my ribs were only 10" apart. It's plenty sturdy. A perfectly flat floor (and no step at back) would be preferred, but the cost and time to do so simply wasn't worth it.
My floor is screwed down. Originally with self tapping screws which worked loose. I have replaced them with larger pan head screws but some still come loose. Next time I will use rivets.
Not glued down, but you get idea.
Buy battery trays or better yet the boxes for back in the bilge area. Rivit them down as well.
Nice job, there. I did something similar with my Alumacraft, but I used treated 1/4" plywood, paint with sand on the top for better footing with the wet, snow/ice etc up here in northern Minnie. The insulation makes the floor quieter & less cold. Big improvement .
Got it all glued down today with the original DAP WeldWood Cement.