More bow lift?

Almost all of you are misreading the problem; he is trying to LIFT the bow. His problem isn't that the bow is too light.
Pods will make it worse.
Tabs will make it worse.
Moving weight to the nose will make it worse.
Providing you have the fuel tank and battery already at the stern, trimming the motor back/out is the only thing that will help.
Console or tiller????

 

Im pretty sure he said he was BOUNCING when he trimmed the bow up and it was bad so he couldn't lift any more...which is another term for porposing..... so the combat the porposing, Id suggest adding weight to the bow... so the boat doesn't rock.... then WITHOUT porposing...he can lift the bow to get more of the hull out of the water....and he'll gains some speed....

you can lift the bow even though puts more weight in it.... pods ( mis installed pods) and tabs will hurt his plans.....I added DYNAMIC flotation pods to my hull, so I could retract them, so I COULD RAISE the bow at speed.....mine are adjusted via Electric Lenco trim actuators.

 

That set up is pimp! I'm stealing that idea.

 

I was having a similar problem with a 16' with a 40 Yamaha. This is what fixed my problem.
http://thmarine.com/reverse-transom-wedge

 

If I remember correctly, a cleaver style prop is generally transom lifting, a chopper style prop is bow lifting, so looking into a chopper style prop may be another good step. Porpoising, how about a variety of whaletail on the motor, or, if I read this right, you have a jackplate, depending upon how high you go, a compression plate, like a boatright, trans sports boats, manta ray, etc...

 

actually its horrible out of a 4 ft hull, but who wants to go fast in a 4 ft hull?

I make joke!.....

bad bob

 

Well sure it is ! Do you know how hard it is to control a 4ft hull.

 

IF your problem is that you CAN lift the bow with trim but THEN it causes porpoising, then move your fuel tank and battery to the bow....then you can trim up.