Mud Motor Recommendation

Discussion in 'Mud Motors' started by bang you'r dead, Jan 19, 2013.

  1. bang you'r dead

    bang you'r dead Canada Forum Mod. Eh! Moderator Flyway Manager

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    Hi... I am looking at puchasing this boat, and would like to use a mud motor on it. I have never owned a mud motor before.

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    http://www.alumacraft.com/water-fowler-16.php as I found a very good off-season deal on it.

    For specs again, it is
    16' feet long, 50"" bottom width, 21" transom, wt about 555 lbs. I would mainly be hunting with 2 hunters total and a dog, so about 500 lbs of people/gear. I only have to go less than 5 miles normally by boat, in water usually 6"-18" deep, with moderate weeds. I would like to be able to bring the boat on plane, but don't need excessive speed. I would like to keep the price down to keep the wife happy.

    What do the experts suggest?
     
  2. Mallardmisser

    Mallardmisser Elite Refuge Member

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    Not an ideal set-up. The boat is designed to run "in the water" the motor is designed to run on the surface. Will it work, yes. Will it work well, no. A mud motor will always work better on a true flat bottom hull.

    If you put a load it that boat it will be even worse, the hull will want to squat further in the water, making it even more dificult to get on the surface.

    I tried a 15 foot waterfowler with horrible results. 2 guys and gear we could do about 10mph. MM need large, flat planing surfaces to work well.

    You could try a longtail, but that is probably not going to be much better than a shortie on that boat.

    PS I've seen your snowmobile posts...ain't no way I can see you happy putt-putting to a hunting spot...
     
  3. 2eagles

    2eagles Elite Refuge Member

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  4. mallardSX2

    mallardSX2 Elite Refuge Member

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    Unless you are buying a boat wight a completely flat bottom I wouldn't wast your time with a mud motor. And go with a Gator-Tail 35 and have it modded immediatly.
     
  5. bang you'r dead

    bang you'r dead Canada Forum Mod. Eh! Moderator Flyway Manager

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    I'm assuming a slight V at front and flat bottom behind. All welded .102. Does this mean it is too narrow ? What kind of surface area should I be looking at? I know that for speed, there is a formula based on the square root of the length of the waterline (or is that only for sailboats)? I do have another option. I have been looking at this as well. Tell me what you think.



    http://manitoba.kijiji.ca/c-cars-ve...ertail-duck-boat-and-motor-W0QQAdIdZ434390716


    [​IMG]

    I figure I can get this quite a bit cheaper now in the off season.
     
  6. woffman

    woffman Senior Refuge Member

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    You can get a used surface drive on an actual mudboat for cheaper than that. I personally wouldn't give $5k for that boat/motor combo. If you're looking for a surface drive, get a boat with longitudinal bracing and .125 gauge. A surface drive is the only way to go if you're looking for any speed at all.
     
  7. bang you'r dead

    bang you'r dead Canada Forum Mod. Eh! Moderator Flyway Manager

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    Now I'm confused. I went to a mud motor website (talk) and went through their advice and I found this, in refernence to the Alumacraft 16.
    Does this mean I would do better with a long tail than a surface drive? I thought it was the other way around, or do the surface drives add that much more drag.
     
  8. Glades Ranger

    Glades Ranger Elite Refuge Member

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    Hey, it will be a significant investment whatever you decide on, so test drive them all. I run typically 10-12 miles round trip in a sheltered marsh, shallow, hard bottom, little mud, no beaver dams or trees. Since 1986, the longtail has been enough. Cheaper in cost and maintenance compared to all motors, very reliable, people in Alaska have run them but I noticed they switched to SD's because of the long river runs up there. If you want to push larger loads, need speed and maneuverability, hunt/fish big water and chop, or have long runs, need reverse, the Surface Drive is the way to go! A surface drive should/must be matched with a true flat bottom mud hull for the optimum performance. A longtail will work on just about any jon boat hull and best with a flat bottom hull. If you have nominal weeds, a conventional outboard may be the best- sounds like you can access your area with one and don't necessarily need a mud motor. There is no one boat/motor combo to fit all marshes.
     
  9. 2eagles

    2eagles Elite Refuge Member

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    They say a surface drive needs clean water to function at it's best. The longtail on that A-craft is way back from the transom in cleaner water. No bubbles from the hull. The sd, being so close is trying to operate in water that is coming under the hull in bubbles and spray. That's why a true flat bottom is best for a sd because the water is not disrupted as much.

    Now that Beavertail rig looks pretty good. I don't think they would put together an outfit that wouldn't do the job. It would be something to test drive before you buy though. Is there open water near you this time of year?
     
  10. Mallardmisser

    Mallardmisser Elite Refuge Member

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    That Beavertail will go pretty much anywhere there is a couple inches of water. It won't be fast, will be downright slow when loaded to the hilt as most of tend to do. A mod-vee will sit a little deeper in the water and hang up the bottom a little easier, also the vee works against you when trying to spin the rig around in mud.

    If you only run 5 miles, at worst it would probably take you 20 min(15mph) to get there. If you have a decent running short tail rig you can probably do it in 12 min(25mph)

    Longitudinal stringers are great for guys who hit lots of stumps and such. Not all the necessary if you are in weeds or soft bottom. I would look that beavertail boat over for hooks (dents) in the hull. Hooks are performance killers, especially for short tails.

    Will you be running any sandy bottom? Sand is the devil to short tails. Props get spendy at ~$300 a pop for short tails. Longtail props are about half the cost.
     

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