Need advice on boat/motor

Discussion in 'Boats, Blinds, & Gadgets Forum' started by Matt Cerniglia, Sep 29, 2017.

  1. Matt Cerniglia

    Matt Cerniglia Refuge Member

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    Feb 7, 2016
    Location:
    SE Wisconsin
    I'm trying to figure out which way to go and was hoping to get some advice. My 1648 Lowe is currently without a transom. I'm rebuilding with aluminum and waiting on my neighbor to tig weld it not sure if it will be ready for Wisconsin southern opener. I have a scissor blind that I built for the boat that I've been tweaking/improving over the past couple of years. Now as far as motors go I just sold my swomp longtail. Great motor and got me into some tight places but wasn't practical switching between that and outboards every season. I also want something that's easier to drive over longer distances so I can venture further from the launch in a timely manner. I have a 2001 90hp merc tiller that I bought from a merc employee and it's in really good shape. I know it's way too much power for boat but I might just throw it on when transom is done to test for leaks. I also have an atlas micro jacker at my disposal. I also have a 1980's 30 hp mariner(made in Japan) in good shape with stainless prop that should fetch around 800. I was thinking of going the 1860 route... tracker, G3, weldbilt... using money from longtail sale and current boat with 30 mariner sale. Then put the 90 tiller on and be done with it. OR trade the 90 outboard and cash for a newer pro drive and put on current boat till funds are available for new/newer boat. That 90 would be awesome getting me where I want to go whether I'm on the local river or on the Mississippi but worry about the shallows where's it's choked with weeds. Let me know if you guys have any ideas/suggestions. Thanks
     
  2. Glades Ranger

    Glades Ranger Elite Refuge Member

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    Location:
    Florida
    Depends on your needs/load/distances...my 1648 2004 grizzly did fine with a 25 HP Merc outboard but could not get me into the marsh, unlike my longtail motor which is best suited to the usually shallow/hard bottom conditions...if I was going longer distances with heavier loads, a surface drive of at least 25 HP would be the ticket...many have done fine putting a 35 shorty on a 1648, and since you are re-building the transom, that might be the way to go. 1860 is much heavier and you would then have at minimum a 35 SD or more horses outboard. I don't traverse much big water so I don't need a modified V hull and could actually do better with a true flat rather than my grizzly but it was a compromise. What is the usual rig in your neck of the woods?
     
  3. Olefart

    Olefart Senior Refuge Member

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    Jan 1, 2014
    Location:
    Muscatine, Iowa
    If you can find one, a MB HDR 45 or a Black Death 4500 would push your Lowe really well with or with out a load. My rig is the same size as your Lowe only its a riveted Almacraft, with a moded MB45. It will run mid thirties light and 28-30 with a load. 100_0070.JPG
     
  4. Matt Cerniglia

    Matt Cerniglia Refuge Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2016
    Location:
    SE Wisconsin
    More mod v's then true flats. I'm in SE wisconsin so a lot of shallow muddy rivers you have the Mississippi not too far and some smaller lakes/flowages. I also have horricon marsh close and everyone I know seems to run a flat jon and pro drive. Ya my longtail was a 35. I was taught to always buy the biggest because your eventually going to want to upgrade.
     
  5. Glades Ranger

    Glades Ranger Elite Refuge Member

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    Location:
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    Olefart is moving along real well- good advice that, a 35 stock would also be great on your 1648...I've often tried to convince my wife I need more than 1 duck boat but no luck, though at least I've managed several scatterguns using similar logic...the only craft you could not give me is an airboat, though it gets almost everywhere, the cost, noise, and more risky IMO function outweigh pros; there are times I would like to downsize, like a 1436 with an 12 HP copperhead, it would be so easy to hide and move around, but when my nephews join me, an 1848 with a big block would be cool. My final counsel would be to get that transom done right and put that big block on it and be done!
     
  6. perfmarine

    perfmarine Elite Refuge Member

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    Location:
    Atlantic
    The 1860 will work great with the 90. However most are rated for 90 with a console not tiller if that matters in your area. If you are going to make long trips on the water put in a sm side console so you don't get tired of holding the tiller. If you get a hydro/electric transom jack you will have no problem getting into the shallows.
     
  7. calling4life

    calling4life Elite Refuge Member

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    Location:
    Minnesota
    Tunnel hull may be a great option for you as well, then you can also run an Outboard, 1860, maybe throw a 150 on it, now traveling distance will be no problem. Properly done tunnel, jackplate, prop, there ain't much that'll stop it.
    There's a Youtube video of a guy running a Majek 21' RFL tunnel, Honda 150, outboard prop, not jet, through at times what looks like 4wheeler tracks in mud, cutting, crossing, just a crazy shallow mostly mud with little pools and runs of some water. Most people believe it's the kind of thing that's impossible, or will destroy your motor, but done right, tunnels are crazy, this guy runs through it without issue. I've read pretty extensively on tunnels, Majeks have a pretty great reputation, but then most of these spendy ocean boats are done right, which is why I look to them for how to do it.


    My only first hand experience is my Beavertail final attack, at 8' long, 44" wide, it's technically a through hull tunnel and really not at all "done right," and incredibly different than the above Majek. I can still run my 8hp Evinrude with the skeg about dead even at the bottom of the hull, and I don't even have a low water pickup nose cone, much less a transom mount water pickup. I'm thinking about elevating the motor even more just to see how far I can get her skeg north of the bottom of the hull. Just got my compression plate on, I'm taking her out tonight, can't wait.

    It's crazy what it'll run through, *** puckering, and it can be done in bigger setups, but done wrong, it'll just be a hull with the middle missing.

    Props that run crazy shallow like that will generally kill your top end though, I know mine did, so depending upon what you need, if just scary shallow is good enough, the right prop, you'll still run like a scalded dog.

    Hydraulic Jackplate, custom cupped prop (some guys run 4 blades vs a custom 3), compression plate, go transom mount water pickup, proper tunnel, and if you don't want sag and squat on takeoff, pods done right or a recessed transom.
     

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