The Basics

Discussion in 'Photography Forum' started by Wack, Jun 14, 2007.

  1. Wack

    Wack Elite Refuge Member

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    Taking control of the camera Part II - Modes

    TV or Shutter Priority mode:

    You choose the shutter speed to a specific duration, and the camera adusts the correct aperture for a proper exposure.

    With longer exposures (slower shutter speeds), this mode is often chosen as an effect to create predictable motion blur, or when working in low light.

    Faster shutter speeds would be chosen when photographing sports or high-speed action, to freeze the action or motion.

    Now you can't shoot everything at the fastest shutter speed, or the slowest. You must begin at a reasonable speed dependent upon available light.

    In the shutter-priority mode, the aperture value should change when the command-dial is being turned for setting a shutter speed.
    However, it is possible that shutter speed changes and the aperture value stays all the same.
    This means that the shutter speed is either too high or too low. Therefore, make sure that you will watch the change of both aperture value and shutter speed.
    Otherwise, you may easily get over- or under-exposed photographs.


    Can lower shutter speeds, used in low light be used to capture photos of moving subjects?

    Yes. You can use a technique known as 'panning'. Very similiar to following a duck with the muzzle of your shotgun. Simply begin to follow the subject and 'pan' the camera at the same speed as the subject, while keeping the subject in the frame. Gently plunge the shutter and continue moving the camera as you shoot. It's a great way to display speed and motion.

    An example of panning: This boat is going at least 60 miles per hour, just after daylight. This particular photo was taken at 1/40th shutter speed at 640 ISO.
    If I would have chosen a fast shutter speed...there would be no background motion blur, and I would have had to have a very high ISO to get a proper exposure:

    [​IMG]


    This is an example of using a very high shutter speed with an insanely bright scene. I was basically shooting directly into the setting sun at 1/8000ths of a second. Any slower and the picture would have been completely blown out:

    [​IMG]


    And finally this is a timed exposure of my home on a snowy night.
    Of course this was shot from a tripod with a remote shutter release. The highlights are actually a bit blown out a bit on this one....but will give you an example of using a slow shutter speed and tripod combo, to get a decent exposure in very low light.

    Shutter speed was 2 seconds, ISO 100

    [​IMG]


    In a case like this one you would want to take several photos...adjusting the shutter speed as you go. This is the same scene framed a bit differently. Highlights a bit better, ect....and a totally different 'feel'.

    ISO 100, 1 second exposure:


    [​IMG]
     
  2. stuwest

    stuwest Elite Refuge Member

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    GREAT POST. DEFINITELY A STICKY!!:clap :clap :clap

    The only thing i would add (and this is a very small thing that I suspect you agree with) is when i'm shooting motion, after I have POV, i usually go for focus instead of 1/3 composition. I can crop later, but I really can't add sharpness in PS. (Diz- you can't call sour grapes; this is a point that can make or break a motion shoot)
     
  3. Culver

    Culver Senior Refuge Member

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    Great thread!!!! I have learned so much already. I, too, nominate this for "sticky" status!
     
  4. Dizzy Duck

    Dizzy Duck Elite Refuge Member

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    "Sour Grapes" I usually make wine from mine!

    Yes you can sharpen somewhat in PS, or better yet shoot RAW.
    You will find that you will loose sharpness during every generation of cropping , sizing or color correction or just building a layout with a transformation of the image. I have a procedure that I use but it takes a little practice but yields the best results for me:

    From Raw I go directly to the TIFF I will archive.
    This Archival TIFF will be color and density corrected, Spotted, and shaped.
    This TIFF will be the final Archive of the Image then Saved.
    All transformations, cropping , and layout will come from this TIFF as a copy saved with Layers.

    This will be applied to a final product or layout.
    After any other transformations, (Cropping and sizing for a specific print or spread) and after any text is added. (Text as a separate layer) I will return to the image layer and use a sharpening brush and literally brush on the desired sharpness. This allows me to sharpen certain parts of the image more or less than others. I only use the "UnSharp" Mask for global sharpening.
     
  5. Pantherdux

    Pantherdux Moderator - MN forum / Photography Moderator

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    WACK

    Very awesome post. I think you hit everything on the head! Thanks for the GREAT contribution to this forum. We ALL appreciate it. Thanks
     
  6. duckslyr

    duckslyr Elite Refuge Member

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    Wack,
    This is an awesome post. I can't wait for the next section in your lecture. Thank you :tu

    -Chris
     
  7. walters

    walters Refuge Member

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    Wack: Keep up the great work....thanks for taking the time to provide this information...I'm just starting and you are making a confusing process much easier
     
  8. WOODIE13

    WOODIE13 Elite Refuge Member

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    Nice thread!:tu
     
  9. Tako

    Tako Banned

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    WOW. Joined the forum to learn duck hunting, and I'm advancing my photography knowledge! :clap

    BIG thumbs up!:tu
     
  10. Lame-Duck

    Lame-Duck Elite Refuge Member

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    Wack.....Excellent and very informative post.....one we can all benefit from. :tu
     

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