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Discussion in 'Boats, Blinds, & Gadgets Forum' started by buck_master_2001, Mar 9, 2018.
Guys, "machine screws" ARE bolts.
Yes, seal the machine screws/bolts.
Tuleman beat me to it..... I have a airboat with 3/8th poly and mud boat with gator glide. IMO don’t think you can’t beat the poly for the application your talking about. Once installed you should never have to worry about it again. Takes a lot of holes though lol. I used 1/4-20 stainless Phillips flat head machine screws sealed with locktite, drill, tap, countersink. Albony county fasteners has good prices and runs discount codes pretty regularly. A nylock and washer works as well. I have a few on my bottom used the same 1/4-20 machine screw. You need to seal the hole in the boat not in the poly. They use rivets and adhesives as well. I think the thickness of your boat will determine the best installation method
My sister had a nice canoe in the fifties. It was always a struggle to get it to track straight. Eventually they figured out that the keel was not true. With that experience in mind, I would have to wonder about glide strips on the bottom of a canoe. I also built a drift boat which I took to Montana in the late eighties. The plans called for a synthetic slippery panel to cover the bottom as protection against rock damage. That material was heavy as hell and affected the performance of the boat. To me, the potential to cause your canoe to lose track, plus additional weight, should be considered. There is still the question of how you will fasten the glide strips. It doesn't seem like a good idea to put a bunch of holes in a bottom which can only promote the potential for leaks. I think you will have a tough time finding an adhesive which will really bond your strips to the bottom. I would go for a slippery coating which could be brushed or sprayed on.
Putting runners on the bottom of the hull is very common to hunt this area. Any kind of coating would be destroyed after a couple hunts. These are big files to pull that are 125-150’ from waters edge to waters edge.
The common practice is to weld these runners on. I’m not spending $700 on runners on a $150 canoe. That’s why I’m looking to just do it myself by bolting them in.
I get it now. The " glide strips" are metal. I thought he was talking about synthetic material like w hat is used on boat trailers or the ' skid shoe' on my drift boat.
The guide strips are UHMW. Typically they are bolted onto “channel” or runners that are welded onto the hull. Aluminum does not slide well on dirt and rocks. It especially doesn’t last long. Here is a picture of a runner on a boat.
I want to do away with the aluminum part of it and just put the UHMW to the hull.
You know, I don't know why I didn't think of this before. What about spraying it with bed liner material? I knew a contractor that sprayed the stuff on trucks, tanks and other big industrial applications. I had him spray the bottom of my duck boat with about 1/8" thick of the stuff and it has held up perfectly. Now, it is not slippery like Gator Glide or UHMWPE, but you will not find better protection against abrasion and it is slicker against rock and sand than straight aluminum. Downside: cost.
Between bed liner and UHMW poly, I'd go poly. Easier to replace when it wears out (and they both will) and slicker.
Bolt em on and seal the holes with 3m 5200.
I thought Stainless hardware and Aluminum hulls were incompatible though, you might want to check into that.