Weighting a water keel?

Discussion in 'Decoy Forum' started by WARTHOG, May 3, 2018.

  1. WARTHOG

    WARTHOG Senior Refuge Member

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    I have a bunch of older G&H water keel duck decoys in standard and magnum size. In the 1990's I bought the water keels because of packing rigs a long distance on foot and less weight made sense. Fast forward to 2018 and I still have an odd couple of dozen of the old G&H water keels that are still in pretty good shape and I plan to continue hunting with them. The premium now is not light weight for hiking decoys in a long distance. The premium is a decoy that will self right when you toss them out.

    On the old G&H decoys that I have the keel is sealed off in the front and only open on the back which should make filling with sand and sealing off the open back an easy process.

    Questions:

    1) Anyone have any experience with adding sand to the water keel and sealing off the open end with silicone? Will the sand added to the water keel of a G&H decoy add enough weight to make the decoy self right?

    2) Is there something better than silicone to seal off the opening?

    Thank you in advance for the replies!
     
  2. Native NV Ducker

    Native NV Ducker Mod-Duck Hunters Forum, Classifieds, and 2 others Moderator Flyway Manager

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    If you REALLY want them to self-right, go heavier than sand. I stuck some lead strap weights AND sand, to stop the noise, then sealed em up.

    Silicone is fine. Hot glue gun is what I used.
     
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  3. Billy Bob

    Billy Bob Elite Refuge Member

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    Hot glue gun is easiest just leave 1/4 inch below the opening and fill that bit of space with hot glue so the plug can never fall out. I used Portland cement on a lot of my water keel decoys of all brands, by far the best way.
     
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  4. Fowler267

    Fowler267 Elite Refuge Member

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    Bag of ready mix concrete. Fill the keel and add a few screws for grip.

    I used great big "Deer Spikes" shoved into old Flambeaus. They were 1/2 inch think and about a foot long.
     
  5. RTIC

    RTIC Senior Refuge Member

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    What about adding a stick of rebar and sand? Too much weight?
     
  6. Rick Hall

    Rick Hall Elite Refuge Member

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    I've used rebar alone, and if not absolutely completely sealed in, it can rust stain the decoys the keel water leaks on.
     
  7. duckbuster5901

    duckbuster5901 Senior Refuge Member

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    Years ago I did same thing with some G&H waterkeels. At that time I used old lead shot in 4,s I believe that I had laying around from the switch to steel waterfowl loads. Sealed ends with caulk and never had a problem. I believe silica sand is what was generally used by decoy companys way back when.
     
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  8. RTIC

    RTIC Senior Refuge Member

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    I havent cut one open but i think the Dakotas use rebar and sand. I could understand that causing an issue if it wasnt sealed off good.

     
  9. WARTHOG

    WARTHOG Senior Refuge Member

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    Thanks for the replies! I am going to experiment with sand first and see if it works. If not, I will up my game to a sand / rebar combination. Also, the keels have a round hole and I had the idea to close the hole with a self tapping bolt with super glue. Looks like it would be longer term than just a silicone plug. Again, thanks for the help!
     
  10. Native NV Ducker

    Native NV Ducker Mod-Duck Hunters Forum, Classifieds, and 2 others Moderator Flyway Manager

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    That will work, no doubt. My concerns would be the bolt rusting, breaking the bond of the super glue. Also, super glue is fairly brittle. You are gluing a solid object to a flexible one. (Bonus points for the bolt being additional weight, so there is that)

    There is going to be zero stress on the plug. Silicon (or hot glue) will flex with the plastic. It will be there forever.

    Again, your bolt idea will work. So will the others. I would go with what is easier in your mind and what you have on hand. No need to over think this.
     

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