Airbrush tips and tricks

Kumduck

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On mixing/matching/adjusting oil base Rust-Oleum to run through the airbrush:
Is there a more efficient way than using my wife's kitchen measuring cups?
 

Woodduck31

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just make sure it's not her "pampered chef" stuff, trust me she will take a dim view of that.

What I use for just about everything from mixing paint, mixing rebound 25, mixing onyx plastic is the clear 9 oz. solo cups I get in packs of 50 at walmart. If I need accurate measures I put a board, 1"x1" behind the cups to get things fairly accurate for 50/50 mixes. For the most part in my mixes I have an idea of what colors I need to make it and use the sneak up on it method. When I'm doing the beige color on the back of a mallard right behind the head it's basically white mixed with brown. I might find out it's leaning a little pink, so I'll warm it up with some yellow. Sometimes it's leaning a little blue and I'll brown it down with some red. You can end up with quite a volume of paint sometimes trying to get it right, so unless having a bunch isn't a problem, I'd start small.
 

Woodduck31

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I've been working on a bunch of decoys the last few days and thought it would be good to talk about the types of tips sizes. Since I only use a paasche vl, I will have to suppose that other brands are similar with the #1 tip being for very thin materials like inks, the #3 tip being for medium materials like lacquers and thinned oil based enamels and the #5 tip for heavier materials such as latex and thicker oil based enamel. I'm typically running a #3 tip, but today out of necessity had to put in a new cap, needle and tip in the #5 size. I'm not doing anything terribly detailed at the moment, but it occurred to me this is probably what those of you who just want a reasonable repaint option that is a little closer to blowing on a lot of color like a rattle can. I'm pleased with the way the #5 out of my paasche vl worked and will always have one of my three airbrushes running the bigger tip in the future for those big blown on areas.
 

Kumduck

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Once flocking is done, and giving the glue (Rustoleum) an adequate time to set, would you recommend vacuuming the deke to remove loose flocking? After sitting out for a season, I've noticed some "splotchy" areas on a few dekes where the airbrushed paint is worn off. I'm thinking these were areas that had excess, unattached flocking.
 

Woodduck31

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I blow the excess flocking off after each application and before I start to paint. I haven't had that issue, so I really can't answer that.
 

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