Broadhead tuning fixed vs mechanical

Discussion in 'Bow Hunting Forum' started by SkolMNDuckHunter, Aug 29, 2020.

  1. SkolMNDuckHunter

    SkolMNDuckHunter Senior Refuge Member

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    Getting back into bow hunting after about a decade. I picked up some Rage Trypans with rebate for way too low a price to pass up, but have never shot mechanicals. I've been practicing with my field points the last couple months, and shooting good groups. Tried some of my old fixed blade broadheads and they curve balled down and left about 6" at 20 yards.

    Now I've read about moving the rest in micro movements up and right until the fixed blades group with my field tips. My question is, since I have the Rages, is it possible that they'll shoot fine without doing that, or should I just tune for my fixed blades and assume it will help the mechanicals too?

    I'd rather not start flinging the Rages at the target if I should tune my bow to my fixed blades first because they don't give you a practice head.

    Thanks for any help!
     
  2. Out of focus

    Out of focus Elite Refuge Member

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    It appears I am surrounded by experts.
    Not sure about the rage, but swackers shoot like field tips out of my compound and xbow. Also shot rocket mechanicals about 25 years ago and they flew just like the field tips.
     
  3. SkolMNDuckHunter

    SkolMNDuckHunter Senior Refuge Member

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    Thanks. Maybe I'll just shoot one and see how it does. If it's on at 30 I'll just use the other two for this year. Eventually if like to get it tuned and go back to fixed, but I'm running out of time.
     
  4. Farm4wildlife

    Farm4wildlife Elite Refuge Member

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    A tuned bow will put any broadhead that spins true to the same impact point as a field point within reason. Some broadheads have a crap design, others are big enough to cause more drag at distance causing them to start to hit lower. The problem with mechanical broadheads is they get used to overcome poor tuning. Your wasting a lot of energy in a bow that isn't tuned probably.

    I always broadhead tune a hunting bow. You can start with paper tuning but I don't spend much time with that. I'll bareshaft tune till I'm getting same impact point to 20-25 yards, then put the broadheads on and tune till they are same impact 60 or 70 yards.

    The bow I'm taking with me to start the season with has 3 different fixed heads and 2 mechanical heads all flying with field points to 70 yards, still haven't decided what heads I'll use. Probably carry 2 different ones in the quiver.

    Some bows are easier to just set the centershot and tune with bow adjustments. Some unless you have a press you will need to use the rest to make adjustments. You want to tune for the up/down first, then do your horizontal adjustments. If your broadheads are impacting low, and your rest is in the center of the Berger hole already, spin your nocking point down the serving a little. Once you get broadheads hitting same level as your field points you will need to either shim your cam, twist a yoke, adjust a cable guard, or move the rest.

    Keep notes on every adjustment you make so you can go back if you go wrong way by mistake, I like to put marks on things if I don't have reference lines.
     
  5. SkolMNDuckHunter

    SkolMNDuckHunter Senior Refuge Member

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    Thanks for all that Farm, I don't have a press or the luxury of much time left so I think I'll do my best with moving the rest for now. If I can shoot a 2" or so spot at 30 yards, I'll be happy for this year. If I get back into more seriously I'll likely upgrade my bow anyway. It's a cheap Parker that's about 15 years old.
     
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  6. Zum

    Zum New Member

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    Did the rage come with a practise broadhead?
    Normally they shoot the same as a field point.
     
  7. widgeon

    widgeon Elite Refuge Member

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    The only mechanical I've shot is grim reapers and the shoot just like a field point. I don't shoot past 40 yds though. The grim reapers have a practice head that has the same profile so it's just like shooting a hunting head.
     
  8. SkolMNDuckHunter

    SkolMNDuckHunter Senior Refuge Member

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    Unfortunately not... the only reason I bought them is because after the rebate I'll have paid $18 for the pack. These Rages seem to have a little more "wing" on them than some of the other mechanicals.
     
  9. Sunklands

    Sunklands Elite Refuge Member

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    With all the hype around speed, it’s very easy for compound shooters to be, over spined. Folks want a lighter arrow, so they go as short as possible and shoot a 100-75gr head. The arrow can get to stiff and cause the arrow to nock right or left depending on it you’re right or left handed. Your arrow has to flex(paradox of arrow) and if it doesn’t the rear will try to outrun the front. You can also be under spined, by having to long or light of an arrow for your broadhead. Tuning your arrow is a must before doing anything to your bow. I can guarantee you(coming from a long bow and recurve shooter) there’s been millions of bows that have been scoffed at, that can still kill as good as the new ones, cause folks don’t know what the hell they’re doing.
     
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  10. Farm4wildlife

    Farm4wildlife Elite Refuge Member

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    It's very difficult to overspine a centershot compound. Look at the indoor arrows. Guys are shooting 150 spine arrows for Vegas. I have actually found you generally want to be on the stuff side of what is recommended on the arrow charts for hunting.

    A stick bow is a completely different story, those bows you need to fine tune the arrows as you know.
     

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