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Decoy Weight Question

Discussion in 'Decoy Forum' started by Hardcore Waterfowler, May 10, 2021.

  1. Hardcore Waterfowler

    Hardcore Waterfowler Senior Refuge Member

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    I agree with bird junkie. These weights are the most adaptable weights I know of. No tangles in the bag, good in both shallow and deep water.
     
  2. Tuleman

    Tuleman Elite Refuge Member

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    But you almost always have to remove the gloves to get that half-hitch off the weight.
    Had an aluminum mold made for this type of weight, cast up a couple dozen and used them extensively about twenty years ago.
    But I never could get really comfortable with them.
    Went to a small mushroom-type weight that I also cast myself and have been happy with them ever since.
    Of course, the deepest water I put decoys in now is about 3 feet. Back then it was from 2 feet to about 8 feet.
     
  3. Rubberhead

    Rubberhead Elite Refuge Member

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    I understand that. I ran these weights for years. But, especially in deep water, you've got to handle the line twice. Once when you pull it up to get to the weight then once when you wind the line around the weight. In 10 or more feet of water you end up with 10 feet of line laying in the boat that will snag on everything including other decoys, other weights, buckles on decoy bags, anchor cleats, under your boot, guns receiver bolt, under a boat paddle, and a dogs toe nail. If you've got a loose rivet, the line will work under that too. I prefer to body wrap decoys so no loose line touchs anything in the boat and I only have to touch the line once.
     
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  4. Hardcore Waterfowler

    Hardcore Waterfowler Senior Refuge Member

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    I haven't had to many issues rolling up the line on these decoys. We have a system in place where each decoy is handed off to a passenger in the boat. They are about done rolling it up by the time the next decoy is brought in. We have a motto we live by... A clean boat is a happy boat. We don't allow loose lines on the floor. Guns and all gear are stowed away before decoy retrieval begins. Different setups and applications for different hunters I guess.

    As far as the double handling goes, doesn't that apply to the mushroom type weight as well? You have to unwind a predetermined amount of line and then tie off to your decoys, especially in water with current. Then your winding it up when your done.

    I personally like the thought of tossing the decoy out and not having to worry about proper line length at dark thirty.

    But you are correct about deeper depths. If your not quick on your retrievals your 10 feet of line quickly becomes 15 feet of line. That is why the original question was asked is there other alternatives that work on this basic principle. I don't think there is, but I thought I would ask the question.

    I appreciate all the input and opinions.
     
  5. Rubberhead

    Rubberhead Elite Refuge Member

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    Nope. The line is wound up on the decoy, which is already in your hand, not on the weight which is still on the bottom. Of course, you can body or keel wrap a line that's attached to a dog-ear weight but, in that case, a mushroom anchor holds better for the same mass.
     
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  6. Billy Bob

    Billy Bob Elite Refuge Member

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    ^^^
    Man with experience.

    My previous post didn't touch on how much I despise H weights. I used them on a dozen decoys for half a season before I melted them down for all of the same reasons Rubberhead has stated in his posts plus the stupid things unwinding and used the lead to pour J weights, the only good use for H weights. The last straw was 4 decoys out of 12 unwinding 25 feet of line. I melted them down as soon as my birds were cleaned. HATE them.
     
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  7. Aunt Betty

    Aunt Betty Elite Refuge Member Supporting Member

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    I use fishing type weights, slotted bags, and I dont wrap a thing. Adam Tudor made me use his decoys and I took notes on how easy it was.
     
  8. Rubberhead

    Rubberhead Elite Refuge Member

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    Haha - you learned quicker than I did. I hate Texas rigs about as much as you hate "H" weights.

    For my plastic decoys with a windable keel, I've gone 100% to snap "J" weights with 20' of thin tarred line. In shallow water the J weights are as quick as Texas rigs, maybe quicker, and there's still an option to use the same decoy in deeper water.

    I hunt mostly Herters, though, so the snap weights aren't much of an option because Herters don't have a windable keel. Most of my Herters are body-wrapped with 25' of heavy tarred line and 12 ounce mushroom weights and stored in slotted backs. These work nearly perfect in tidal and river currents but are unusable in static water so I used to keep some flat bottom decoys rigged with "H" weights for when I hunted deep, still water. But, since then, I've pretty much migrated to long-lines which work great in shallow water, deep water, static water and moving water. Of course, the biggest drawback to long lines is they end up looking like a line which drives my OCD crazy so I still keep a few flatbottoms rigged with "H" weights to break-up the linear presentation.
     
  9. bird junkie

    bird junkie Elite Refuge Member

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    I have never wore gloves setting blocks. I only wear gloves picking up so never been an issue.
     
  10. wingsandwater

    wingsandwater Senior Refuge Member

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    J style won't hold worth a darn in my area. I use H exclusively and have yet to find a better solution that's remotely cost effective.

    @Hardcore Waterfowler ... there's a place on the way to my NJ lease that always have them. If you get in a jam, message me in Sept. and I can grab them and mail em to you when I go over the bridge to grass my blind. They're reasonable, I think they were $36/dozen last year for 1 lb. H style.
     
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