I hate trailer lights.

Small Bore Hunter

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I keep the lights working on all three of my trailers but it’s frustrating at times but I am a driven man.
 

BigSkyDuk

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You guys need to live in a state where trailer lights are optional
I haven’t had functional lights on the duck boat or atv trailer in at least 15 years.
Few things make me happier than getting passed by a trailer without functioning lights only to see him visiting with a state trooper a few miles down the road.
 

bill cooksey

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Few things make me happier than getting passed by a trailer without functioning lights only to see him visiting with a state trooper a few miles down the road.

You are a sick man!
 

linhardt

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The only problem with your idea is that the guy who would know how to correctly install that harness knows already how to properly wire trailer lights, and the guy who would buy that kit expecting it to compensate for his lack of knowledge/expertise would still make a mess of it.
You're probably right.
 

California Flyway

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I have used 1/2" poly irrigation tubing to run wires down the trailer frame. on some trailers I rewired. I pull drift boat trailers down a lot of brier and stick filled roads and the tubing works well to protect wires. I use a good number of extra strong zip ties to secure to trailer frame. A lot of trailers have wires routed through the frame. Two times I discovered shorts in wires from insulation wearing thin on high mileage trailers.
 

Clayton

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Will trailer light ground to aluminum? Moving mine up from the steel frame to the top of the new aluminum side boards frame. Wondering if I need to extend the ground wire back down to the steel frame.
 

booger

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My shorted out trailer lights cost me $338 in Stuttgart. Before I got pulled over I stopped to fiddle with them, fuses, no luck, then said "gotta go". Next thing you know the young rookie lit me up, and while I'm sitting there, we're getting passed by a freight train of rigs with nary a boat trailer light. ARRRRGGGHHHHH

Back home I took a deep dive on wiring and lights (hated it before). Seems wherever the wire touches the frame or goes through a metal ring guide, it wears through the insulation and shorts. Pulled everything and started over with a new kit. Then ran all my wires through car vacuum line to prevent the wiring from touching metal and wearing through the insulation. So far so good.

Trying to pay the fine I was getting quizzed about my possible aliases. Was I also know as "Sir Walter Raleigh" and several others that were ridiculous, waiting on "Tater Salad" to come up. :l
 

Iammichael6499

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I modified my boat trailer so the wires could be routed 100% thru the frame and every light ground wire is connected (via properly sized adhesive lined waterproof crimp butt connectors and adhesive lined heat shrink) to a main ground wire (tinned Ancor, one wire on each side of the trailer) that terminate in the 7-pin box. The only problem I’ve ever had was when one of the brass female 7-pin connectors (brake light) reacted with the male stainless steel Toyota pins (brass turned green). I wire brushed the brass, sprayed it with my top secret anti-corrosion formula … problem solved in less than 10 minutes. Other than that minor oversight of mixing metals I’ve had zero problems in two years pulling this particular trailer 10,000 plus miles thru all kinds of weather over nasty pot-hole filled roads. Use the correct size tinned wire, correct size waterproof butt connectors/shrink tubing, quality 4,5 or 7 pin connectors, waterproof LED’s and route the wires where they don’t rub (or at least wrap them) and you’ll only have light issues when God thinks it’s necessary to punish you for sky busting.
 

mrmallerd

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I haven’t had functional lights on the duck boat or atv trailer in at least 15 years.

Much the same. I once had a friend in his behind me when I pulled in my driveway. Him being a fireman, I got a text saying my left break light was not working. I proceeded to text him that it had to be an act of God that the right one worked.
 

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