My War Eagle transom repair

[ArkieFarmer]

Well, I posted last night that I had been working on my WE. Its transom had started flexing back and forth pretty bad. I talked to War Eagle and they said they would fix the problem for me -all I had to do was drive down to Monticello. I wasn't sure they would fix it like I wanted them to, so I decided to do it myself.

The first pic is of the back of the boat with the seat pods removed. The top of the transom is made with wood (gasp)

The nest pic shows the braces I put in. I replaced the top cap, which was .100 thick with some 1/4". Also, I put a piece of 1/4" plate across the back. On to this I welded some 3/16" gussets/kickers.

 

[BigBand]

That's about as stout as I've ever seen!

If that transom still flexes, you're defying the laws of physics.

 

[ArkieFarmer]

I'm not mad at War Eagle over this deal. In fact, the owner was very friendly and said he'd make it right. What does worry me a bit is that I've seen it posted on this forum that my boat was made to work with a MM. Surely this isn't the case if the transom has started flexing after only 70 or so hours on the hull.

I do some crazy stuff with my boat, but do not go out of my way to mistreat it. I paid $2600 of my hard earned $$$ for this hull and expect it to last for several years. Granted I've got 152 hours on my motor and have only had it since September. I read once that the average boat gets 50 hours on it a year. If that's true I've got the equivalent of three years use over the past 9 months.

The boat runs good and I like it -I don't love it but I like it fine. It gets the job done. The repair looks like it's gonna fix my flexing problem. It had gotten (or maybe it was always like this ) so bad that the sides of the boat pulled inward when I dropped the motor from a tilted position. The WE boats are nice, but mine didn't seem to be able to take the strain of running a MM. I think the motor has too much push with the hull aground. Also, the motor is able to take impacts but the transom didn't seem to be able to take the shock.

In my opinion (whatever that's worth) the rear "wings" of the boat weaken the transom a bit. On my home made boat I put a piece of square aluminum tubing from one side to the other. The WE's transom design didn't allow for this. With a few mods to this hull I think WE could have a SUPER hull for running a MM.

The first pic below shows how the factory foam fits in between the braces.

The second pic shows the finished repair. You can barely tell I've done anything. I like the seat pod design of this boat and didn't want any kickers in the way. They tucked in nicely I think.

I'll run my rig tomorrow and see how she does. Wish me luck boys!

PS: I'll camo it before season opens.

 

[tanner-bull-sprig]

Good luck Arkie, and very nice work. I'm impressed.

 

[Duckman Dan]

You strap that motor to your body in case the boat sinks

Glad to know I got rid of my WE, I was going to put a heavy PD on it, would have done the same thing I bet.

 

[ArkieFarmer]

I don't know dan, a fellow Fuge member has a 1648 WE with a PD and he said his is still ok. Another Fuge member said he knew of a big WE, like a 2070, doing the same thing. He said he had heard of it and a SeaArk that both had read seat pods instead of a bench and both those boats had transom issues similar to mine. Maybe the bench helps strengthen the boat some?

 

[Duckman Dan]

mine was 1542 and .80 gauge, it would broken i bet

 

[greenhead1]

Arkie, good yo be able to do thingsd like that yourself You need to go into the fabrication business , great job.

 

[DVR]

i have to give you credit. it looks good.
the only reason you should go the the factory is to teach a class!

 

[tanner-bull-sprig]

This WE transom issue has got me thinkin.

Do you think I will ever have any problems with my GT? I didn't get the outboard package, and it only has 4 welded braces. I hope not