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Discussion in 'Decoy Forum' started by Deck III, Mar 7, 2021.
You’ve done a helluva good job on those birds, keep it up.
Thanks for the comments. look forward to seeing what you guys come up with.
Here is some of my work in progress from the weekend.
I was never happy with the original paint on my coots. The wings highlights were too bright and covered the top and side of wings. I did these with three different types of black rattle cans, some white (brushed in) and the bill details with some of my daughters nail polishes.
On the teal I just retouch the bills and tails so they pop, separate my oldest for early season and newest for late season.
There are some Higdon battleship Sprig that just needed some touch up on bills and heads, and some details (we had a big blow and these ended up in the dike getting beat up, otherwise they have held up well).
Biggest projects were the Higdon and Herters foam flocked decoys.
I jumped in to an inexpensive airbrush kit for my first foray into AB.
The flocking was still largely intact, so I just re-sprayed them.
The heads on the Herters required removal of the old flocking, and in process of re-flocking (which I have done).
Waiting for my Createx paints to arrive to complete final painting on all the drake heads.
Those look really nice. What are your paint colors for the gaddies? I have a bunch of early greenhead gear gadwall, but the paint didn't last the full first season.
I had some Parker decoy paints left. I just tint up what I want using the 2 browns and the cream.
I have used the Parkers over the years and it seems to have good adhesion IF the original base is still etched well.
If not, and as in the cases of the Herters Millenniums (see the mallard heads), I use a Krylon Primer-Paint for all surfaces, and it seems to stick really well.
I figured this out last year when I camo'd my golf cart (in pic)
. The Krylon flat camo paint didn't adhere well. So I blasted the matte black primer on first, and then the flat top coats were much better.
If you are not painting flocked dekes, you can always put a few coats of dead flat clear on top to prevent scratching.
My paints arrived today, so tonight I will AB the mallard heads.
By the way, Rust Oleum flat is my prefered. If you find someone that has a selection, you can make most of your colors with black, white, yellow, and green. You wont find red in flat, but when you are only dropping a few for tint you won't know.
Like the beaks on a snow goose. Start with White, add a few drops of black to tint gray, then a few drops of red to get that reddish gray beak.
Flat yellow and green?
You know Gene, they may have been satin. I bought some years ago.
Last night I tried Createx acrylic and it seemed to work well (air brush), and clean up was a breeze.
Ill post up results when Im done.
Try to get flat white, flat black, and flat dark brown Rustoleum oil and a small artists tube of raw umber oil. If you can't find flat brown, use a tube of burnt umber. Mix white, a little black, a little raw umber for the gray areas. Breast is black with white markings. Tail and primaries are brown (burnt umber) mixed with black. Base color of head is white, a little burnt umber, a little raw umber to make a taupe color. Markings on head, burnt umber and raw umber. Some people like to paint the whole exposed speculum but I only paint the white patch of the speculum. If you do you'll need a tube of burnt sienna. I believe I used burnt umber with a little white for the outside of the tertial feathers. Paint can add up in dollars but maybe you can find some acrylics cheaper.