Rust repair

Discussion in '4x4 / Truck Forum' started by Timber Hole, Mar 6, 2021.

  1. stevena198301

    stevena198301 Elite Refuge Member Supporting Member

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    This seems like a lot of work. Is a replacement cab from a junk yard easier and cheaper? BTW, congrats on getting the most out of that thing!
     
  2. Timber Hole

    Timber Hole Elite Refuge Member

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    I think welding the rockers and corners would be less work but while I have pulled a cab for engine replacement I have never swapped one. I think I will do some structural work on the rear wheel wells, cold galvanize and then add flares. I don’t really like the flares but skipping the body work and paint will save time and money. I have the engine running good again. I pulled and reinstalled the transmission to fix a rear main leak. None of it is a big deal once you make up your mind you are going to do it.
     
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  3. stevena198301

    stevena198301 Elite Refuge Member Supporting Member

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    I’ve never done body work and I doubt I would be happy with my results. My terrible welding skills don’t help. Good luck!
     
  4. kdog

    kdog Elite Refuge Member

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    Used replacement cabs will be rusted as much as ,what you have ,,,,,,,,a new cab would be as much as a new truck
     
  5. OneShotBandit

    OneShotBandit Elite Refuge Member Supporting Member

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    I have a '98 Ford Explorer w/101,000 miles on it. but the back door at the bottom is rusting out. The Body shop said that they would have to cut & reweld the new pieces all for $2000 per side. And NO BONDO!!!!
     
  6. Timber Hole

    Timber Hole Elite Refuge Member

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    On newer model trucks they replace the entire door skin. Often times they are glued on with panel bond. A deer ran into the side of my 2017 and the dealership replaced 2 door skins.

    On your truck I would look for a good door from the salvage yard. Probably much cheaper if you can find a good one.
     
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  7. Aunt Betty

    Aunt Betty Elite Refuge Member Supporting Member

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    Down south of Effingham Illinois on I57 there's a place that sells these type things.
    If I re-do my truck it's getting a utility bed.
    There's a Truck I see a lot that has one and it's slick.

    Screenshot_20210409-130343_Chrome.jpg
     
  8. lax

    lax Elite Refuge Member

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    I have the 210 and with .030 and gas it it will burn through, .023 and gas should work though.
     
  9. Timber Hole

    Timber Hole Elite Refuge Member

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    Even if I can get the .035 to work I’m sure the .023 will be much more controllable. I need to buy the drive rollers, liner and tip for the .023. Right now I’m just working on getting the mechanical issues addressed. So far a rear main seal, crank sensor, starter and throttle body. Most of the parts in the truck were bought with a lifetime warranty so the throttle body and water pump will be no charge.
     
  10. kdog

    kdog Elite Refuge Member

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    Dont put oil on the rear main seal ....it will leak
    Replace the gasket on the rear seal housing ....they leak too
     

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