switching to TSS - 3 questions from a neophyte

duckrogers

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That’ll work. If they do have the 16mm base hulls get those just for aesthetics. You’ll find the gas seal sits nicely right at the top of the brass. But those hulls will work fine. I’d roll crimp those shells to avoid fold crimp drama associated with stack height. You really want these to be tight when you’re done. Don’t he afraid to add a little buffer if you need to to get them tight. Just stick to 32 steel or 28-29 Longshot.
Hmmm, I read some forum threads about roll crimping. I don't have a drill press, only a hand drill. Do I need to have some special hardware to trim the hulls? It sounds advanced. However, in this situation you feel roll crimp is a better option for a rank novice like myself due to potential stack height problems?
 

C M Wings

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Hmmm, I read some forum threads about roll crimping. I don't have a drill press, only a hand drill. Do I need to have some special hardware to trim the hulls? It sounds advanced. However, in this situation you feel roll crimp is a better option for a rank novice like myself due to potential stack height problems?
Roll crimping is easy and can be done with a hand drill. You just need the rto tool. You can trim with scissors is you want. They cut pretty straight. Yes there are trimming tools but scissors or a utility knife and piece of 3/4 pvc cut to length works fine. I just like knowing I’m gonna have a tight shell without having to muck with my press. I have that set up for volume duck loads, 1 ounce of #3 or 4.
 
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duckrogers

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The BPI order is placed. If this load proves out on the pattern board and I go into larger scale production, the price will be a mere 10 cents more than the Boss bismuth shells I was using last season.
 

C M Wings

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The BPI order is placed. If this load proves out on the pattern board and I go into larger scale production, the price will be a mere 10 cents more than the Boss bismuth shells I was using last season.
Keep us posted. Post some pics of finished shells. I’m betting you’ll be very pleased.
 

5 stand

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I road crimp mine with a BPI roll crimper and a 12 volt cordless drill... Not very pretty but they work...
IMG_20230203_205753066~2.jpg
 
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duckrogers

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Got my components yesterday. The TPS 35mm wad is looking a little more full than I expected with 1/2oz TSS + 3/4oz steel. I'm packing it down by hand with a wooden dowel and I can put about 50 lbs of pressure on it. Does this look OK or do I need to pack it harder or take out some steel?


PXL_20230312_213946215.jpg
 
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A5B

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Got my components yesterday. The TPS 35mm wad is looking a little more full than I expected with 1/2oz TSS + 3/4oz steel. Does this look OK or do I need to take out some steel?


View attachment 380495
Put the tss on top.

Try settling the load by giving it a few taps or by putting a electric toothbrush up against the hull.

If you have cork in the wad, the shot will settle into it when fired. My loads are right at the top of the wad before I but the felt on top and fold crimp them.
 
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duckrogers

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You need to have this load tight. You want the wad FULL or even slightly overflowing - like half a pellet to a pellet above the rim of the wad. Press an over shot card HARD over your shot with your thumb so that you can feel the edges riding on the rim of the wad. Fold or roll crimp it. If you roll crimp trim about 1/8 off the hull before you start.
I looked back at CMwings instructions and I think mine looks about right. A few pieces of the steel are 1/2-3/4 of a pellet diameter above the rim of the shot cup.
 

C M Wings

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Got my components yesterday. The TPS 35mm wad is looking a little more full than I expected with 1/2oz TSS + 3/4oz steel. I'm packing it down by hand with a wooden dowel and I can put about 50 lbs of pressure on it. Does this look OK or do I need to pack it harder or take out some steel?


View attachment 380509
Looks fine to me. There is a lot of setback. I would personally trim the hull 1/8-3/16 and roll it tight. If it folds nice then great.
 
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