The dreaded 5.0

SEKhunter

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The ford gold is like chevys dexcool, flush the entire system yourself and fill with green antifreeze and distilled water. Tap water is bad on cooling systems.

Sometimes a fellow just gets a bad part, whether oem Napa carquest, heck there’s not that many manufacturers out there.
 

woodiefanatic

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I used to work for a company that made engine components so I know how it works.

Part of the reason I chose Ferd.
FCA wasn’t bad either.
Was not a fan of GM and I come from a long line of GM guys.

Gonna try the Murray “high flow” pump. Both FoMoCo pumps the bearing seems to not hold up. Parts only as good as it’s cheapest Chinese component.
 

Tailfeathers

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My 2003 Tundra with over 200K miles has the original water pump, original radiator and hoses. Original fuel pump and power steering pump. Just saying ( boasting).
 

California Flyway

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I put 110K trouble free Miles on a 2011 5.0 F150.
I am old school and the 5.0 represented a nice evolution of their small block.
I replaced it with an F350 with the new "Godzilla V8" that I also really like. I needed something to pull a 30 foot fifth wheel and the Godzilla, ten speed tranny, with Dana 430 gears has been up to the task. Another modern old school engine that has plenty of room in the engine compartment to service and repair if needed. I am done with Diesels due to high repair costs.
 

Masked Mallard

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I used to work for a company that made engine components so I know how it works.

Part of the reason I chose Ferd.
FCA wasn’t bad either.
Was not a fan of GM and I come from a long line of GM guys.

Gonna try the Murray “high flow” pump. Both FoMoCo pumps the bearing seems to not hold up. Parts only as good as it’s cheapest Chinese component.

With a “High Flow” water pump, sometimes you need additional components to take advantage of the “High Flow” water pump. For example,
- Hight Flow Thermostat Housing.
- Maybe a thermostat with a steam hole in it.
- 2 row / 3 row / 4 row radiator.
- water wetter chemicals.

I own a Jeep, and I did the stuff mentioned above, plus I added a transmission cooler and installed silicone hoses. I was able to get my Jeep to run noticeably cooler on the instrument cluster gauge. I would guess I dropped operating temperature by 5°F, and that 5°F is that much further from overheating.
 

stevena198301

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With a “High Flow” water pump, sometimes you need additional components to take advantage of the “High Flow” water pump. For example,
- Hight Flow Thermostat Housing.
- Maybe a thermostat with a steam hole in it.
- 2 row / 3 row / 4 row radiator.
- water wetter chemicals.

I own a Jeep, and I did the stuff mentioned above, plus I added a transmission cooler and installed silicone hoses. I was able to get my Jeep to run noticeably cooler on the instrument cluster gauge. I would guess I dropped operating temperature by 5°F, and that 5°F is that much further from overheating.
The only thing that should change your temp reading on the cluster (if everything else is working) is a different thermostat that opens at a different temperature. What all those things you did will do, is keep it running cooler when it’s hotter outside.
 

Masked Mallard

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The only thing that should change your temp reading on the cluster (if everything else is working) is a different thermostat that opens at a different temperature. What all those things you did will do, is keep it running cooler when it’s hotter outside.
I’m not sure how you want to explain it then, but I was able to drop the operating temperature of my Jeep by doing the things mentioned. My Jeep used to operate just on the plus side of 210°F. Now it operates just on the minus side of 210°F. I’d assume this is from the water pump moving move volume across the cylinders / head & also having a larger radiator up front with more time for the coolant to be spent in the heat exchanger / radiator.
 

stevena198301

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I’m not sure how you want to explain it then, but I was able to drop the operating temperature of my Jeep by doing the things mentioned. My Jeep used to operate just on the plus side of 210°F. Now it operates just on the minus side of 210°F. I’d assume this is from the water pump moving move volume across the cylinders / head & also having a larger radiator up front with more time for the coolant to be spent in the heat exchanger / radiator.
No idea. Automobile thermostats are set to open the valve at a specified temp. That’s why your engine stays at a constant temp, whether you are coasting down a hill in January, or up a hill in July. Your upgrades make you be able to go up the hill, pulling a heavy load in July without overheating. All good upgrades, but none should modify the operating temp, unless you swapped the thermostat for one that opens at a lower temp.
 

tcc

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No idea. Automobile thermostats are set to open the valve at a specified temp. That’s why your engine stays at a constant temp, whether you are coasting down a hill in January, or up a hill in July. Your upgrades make you be able to go up the hill, pulling a heavy load in July without overheating. All good upgrades, but none should modify the operating temp, unless you swapped the thermostat for one that opens at a lower temp.

This. The system's load capacity may have been increased but the engine operates based on the thermostat setting, unless it's overloaded and can't keep up (which shouldn't happen on a stock rig in good working order)
 

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