The dreaded 5.0

[tcc]

With a “High Flow” water pump, sometimes you need additional components to take advantage of the “High Flow” water pump. For example,
- Hight Flow Thermostat Housing.
- Maybe a thermostat with a steam hole in it.
- 2 row / 3 row / 4 row radiator.
- water wetter chemicals.

I own a Jeep, and I did the stuff mentioned above, plus I added a transmission cooler and installed silicone hoses. I was able to get my Jeep to run noticeably cooler on the instrument cluster gauge. I would guess I dropped operating temperature by 5°F, and that 5°F is that much further from overheating.

He would not be installing it because of the higher flow, but for the better quality.

 

[Billy hill]

I can't remember if that is electric fan driven but if it is clutched fan belt driven on the waterpump it could be the fan clutch causing the problem. It might feel free wheeling when relatively cold but locks up out of balance when temp comes up a little. It's very difficult to 100% rule out. Causes repeated water pump bearing failures

 

[Tuleman]

An engine's operating temp depends on the amount of heat put into the cooling system by the engine and the amount of heat that the radiator can remove from the cooling system. The thermostat does only one thing: it enables the engine to more rapidly heat up to the thermostat's rated temperature. Once the coolant heats up to the rated temp and the thermostat fully opens, the thermostat has no more effect.
This can be observed by noting that the normal operating temperature of most modern engines is around 210 degree F. The thermostats in those cars is typically 190 degrees F. If the thermostats controlled normal operating temps, those normal operating temps would be 190 degrees, not 210 degrees.